The Camino de Santiago takes walkers to Santiago de Compostela, capital of Galicia, a land of rich folklore, colourful legends and frightening spirits. Many also believe witches still exist in Galicia, living in disguise and mixed in with the general population.
With Halloween just around the corner, here are 6 spooky facts about the Camino:
1. The Coast of Death
The Costa da Morte or Coast of Death, on Galicia’s Atlantic coast, stretches from Fisterra to Malpica. English seamen in the XIV century frequently referred to this land as the Coast of Death, for its difficult and dangerous geography, a black spot for shipwrecks. Fisterra was also considered the end of the world and a very special place by Romans and pagans, where the sun disappeared behind the sea, connecting both the world of the living and the dead.
Along the Fisterra Way, you will also find many oscillating stones (pedras de abalar), said to predict tragedies.
2. Square of the Dead & The Pilgrim Ghost
In Santiago de Compostela, you will find the imposing Quintana square at the back of the cathedral, which is said to have ‘invisible’ residents. The square is divided in two by a set of stairs: the upper part of the square is called Quintana dos Vivos (Quintana of the Living), while the lower part of the square is the Quintana dos Mortos (Quintana of the Dead), as it was used as a burial ground until 1780. The shadow of a pilgrim is said to appear in a corner of the square every night.
3. Bonaval Park
After 1780, the burial ground for the city moved to San Domingos de Bonaval. Many head to Bonaval Park, next to the convent, to find a peaceful reading or relaxing green space with lovely views of the city. Opened in 1994, the park sits on the old cemetery grounds.
4. Avoid crossroads
While in Galicia, you must also be careful not to bump into the Santa Compaña, a procession of dead souls, feared by many. This very unique procession of restless souls wanders about after midnight, particularly favouring crossroads in the country lanes and being particularly active on special nights such as Halloween, but also Mid-Summer. If you meet them at a crossroads you should draw a circle on the ground and step inside it to avoid being taken by the group.
5. Stone Crosses
Due to this fear of the Santa Compaña, many ‘cruceiros’ (stone crosses) are very strategically placed in crossroads all over Galicia’s countryside. Now you know their real purpose – they will help you escape the recruitment efforts of the Santa Compaña, particularly this time of the year!
6. Soul Pockets
Also frequently found on country crossroads, the ‘petos de ánimas’ (soul pockets) are designed to gather little token offerings for ‘the souls’, so they can leave the purgatory and reach heaven. Once in heaven, they will intervene for those who have left a little token.
7. Queimada
If all else fails to keep you safe from scary spirits along the Camino de Santiago, we recommend you have a sip of Queimada (literally meaning ‘burnt’), a punch drink made of Galician spirited ‘augardente’ mixed with lemon peel, coffee beans, cinnamon and sugar. A special spell is read out while setting alight the concoction so the Queimada will keep the bad spirits and witches away.
A spooky Camino de Santiago adventure in Galicia, from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela, starts at €489pps in low season.
